An Unforgettable Trip to South Korea: Ivette Martinez-Rivera

“You’re going to South Korea, why?” was a predictable question when I shared our vacation plans for the fall of 2022. As far as I recall, leisure travel to Asia had to be to Japan or China. Yet, today, there are several travel destinations to explore that are as attractive (if not more) as the top ones. The Republic of Korea or simply South Korea, is an ideal choice for those who like to travel leisurely and avoid the throngs of tourists.

South Korea after years of poverty is among the top 12 world economies. The emphasis on education is a deeply rooted value and a main reason for its high economic growth. Who is really not aware of Korean products relative to technology, electronics, automobiles, cosmetics and more recently, K-Pop? Anything associated with K-pop has an incredible export value that continues to thrive and to make its mark in the global entertainment industry. Did I say that I am a fan of Korean drama? Yes, I too binge - watch K-dramas (consider that a plus for visiting South Korea).

The Starfield Library, Seoul

The Garden of Morning Calm, Film Location

Understandably, the frequent hostilities and the fear of being trapped in a conflict zone, may be why South Korea is not considered a top travel destination.  The 50 plus million inhabitants of South Korea prefer to focus on leading a normal life as opposed to living in fear. So, why not me?

All of the above helped me pick South Korea. Disregarding the news, we said, “South Korea, why not?” With our bags packed I set off excitedly to embark on a new adventure with Alex my husband, my sister and her husband. We completed our three-week vacation in September 2022.

Since there is so much to see and experience, we confined our visit to Seoul, Jeju Island and Busan.

The country is rich in history and culture, where tradition and modernism co-exist. Seoul's historic sites, museums and art galleries are concentrated in the historic districts, which save time and help burn calories.

Local food is abundant, varied and fresh and the best places to savor it, is in the markets and family run establishments. International food is well represented and easily found. South Koreans have a heavy-duty coffee culture and you are never too far from a fresh cup of good coffee. Drinking the local beer and soju is a must when eating the local food, so we obliged.

Internet access is ubiquitous, fast and free in many places. We chose to carry a pocket WIFI device from the airport to help us navigate through town using Naver Map (Google Maps does not work).

Crime is very low and we felt very safe. Public transportation is highly efficient and cost-effective. Buses, metro stations, trains and taxis are easily accessible and very clean. 

In Seoul we visited two of the five royal palaces, the presidential Blue House, a local market and the traditional neighborhood among other places of interest.

Gyeojngbokgung Palace entrance

This is the grandest of all palaces and was built in 1395. Seniors enter free with a passport.

Young ladies wearing a hanbok

Dressing in a traditional hanbok (rentals nearby) gets you a free entrance.

Gwanghwamun Plaza, sits across from the Gyengbokgung Palace entrance, and features the U.S. Embassy and the statues of two very important historical figures.

King Sejong, commissioned scholars in 1446, to create the Korean Alphabet (Hangul).

Admiral Yi Sun Shin, is a renowned 16th century national hero celebrated for defeating the Japanese fleet.

The Blue House

The Blue House was the presidential palace until President Moon’s term. President Yoon moved the location elsewhere in Seoul. The Blue House is open to visitors free of charge but one needs to book ahead for security clearance; and, passports are inspected at the entrance.

Gwangjang Market is one of the many markets offering delicious local and inexpensive dishes. It has been featured in TV cooking shows and travel shows.

Cheonggyecheon Stream is a pedestrian and recreational oasis in the middle of Seoul.

Namsan Tower is a communication tower perched on a mountain and features spectacular views of Seoul and regular street K-pop performers.

Seoul Cathedral

The beautiful Seoul Catholic Cathedral sits at the start of Myeongdong shopping district. We played "wedding crashers" on our visit and it turned out to be a great opportunity to learn about Korean wedding traditions and customs.

On separate day trips we visited several places of interest outside Seoul.

Suwon Hwaseong Fortress

Suwon Hwaseong Fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage site built between 1794-1796. The fortification at that time, was envisioned as the new site for the capital. Later on, it turned out to be the site of Prince Sado’s remains, after his father --the king-- locked him alive in a chest. The place is an architecture marvel on a grand scale with a two-hour trek mostly uphill around the premises.

Nami Island

Nami Island claims to be a nation in itself. It is more of a family friendly recreational park, with an abundance of green areas, gardens, statues, restaurants and souvenir stores. Nami is reached by a five-minute boat ride.

The Korean Folk Village recreates a typical village of daily life of bygone days. Actors wearing traditional clothing pose as village residents, farmers and craft workers. There is a colorful parade with traditional music and dancing. See short video clip at the end of this post. 

Soraksan National Park

This park has several sites of interest and hiking trails: Unity Garden, where as its name suggests people pray for a unified country; a temple; and, a funicular that takes you up Mount Sorak to soak in the 360-degree panoramic view to the background of monk chants echoing below.  

The Garden of the Morning Calm

This lush and beautiful botanical garden represents the distinct fauna and flora of Korea. The best time to visit the garden is at sunset.

The Demilitarized Zone is a highly restricted military area. A number of places can be visited in the same day. You need to book ahead for security clearance; and, passports are inspected at the Visitor Center. Of all the places to visit, the highlight is the Third Infiltration Tunnel. Wearing a helmet is a must to avoid banging your head. Cameras and phones are not allowed and are placed in lockers. At the end of the south end of the tunnel, there is a small window to view the north side (it does not seem any different!).

The DMZ walking trails are now open to visitors, although, for obvious reasons, Panmunjom --the U.N. designated location for truce talks-- is not.

I gather that the older generations yearn for unification. Although, younger Koreans who did not experience the War, dictatorship and the poverty that ensued, have a different perspective, fearing that democracy, their modern lifestyle and freedom may be curbed.

The Mount Dora Observatory is on the South side of Parallel 38 and is the closest point between the two Koreas. One can see the North villages beyond the expanse of land separating it from the South (loaded with landmines).

Harubang

Sunrise Peak Park

Moving away from Seoul, we arrived Jeju Island after a short flight from Gimpo airport. We rented a car and drove around the island, soaking in spectacular sea and landscapes. In Jeju, harubangs (grandfather) mythical figures sculpted on lava rock, are found everywhere. Our first stop outside Jeju City, was the family friendly Udo Island, a refreshing ferry boat ride. After returning from Udo, we drove to Sunrise Peak Park not too far away.

Haenyo food stand and chanting show

Seongsan Ilchulbong or Sunrise Peak Park – Hikers trek the uphill trails at night to reach the top of the tuft cone by dawn. Down at sea level, there is a haenyo stand with food and a chanting show.  See a video clip at the end of this post of the Haenyo women chanting. There are also short boat rides around the cliff.

The Manjaggul Lava Tube is one of the largest lava cave systems in the world.

We drove to the south of the island via the coastal highway and returned through Mount Halla, the highest mountain in Korea and a top hiking destination.

Seogwipo

On the south end of the Island, we visited the three waterfalls in Seogwipo.

Unlike the rest of the country, Jeju is known for its matriarchal society which dates way back in time, and where women were the actual breadwinners (or seafood-winners). Haenyo, as these women are known, are collectives of sea divers, some of whom still dive well into their 80s. They take deep dives wearing only a mask and a net to harvest and sell abalone, octopus, sea urchin and other sea delicacies. There are about 4,000 of haenyo left in Jeju. It was a first for me daring to eat freshly caught sea creatures and I won the bet.

On our final stretch, we flew from Jeju over to Busan. We stayed a short walking distance from the Gwangalli Beach and enjoyed the nightly fireworks, below the Gwangan Bridge. The beachfront is packed with cafés, bars and restaurants with a youthful vibe. We enjoyed an open music and dance show organized by the town; and, on our last evening, we even had the opportunity to watch a neat drone show.

Marine City

The Marine City financial center has an observation deck, although we chose to appreciate the free views from the ground.

Below is a sample of the main destinations visited in Busan.

Haedong Yonggungsa, a magnificent sea side temple, is a large compound made up of different areas and buildings for praying. The view to the sea is breathtaking.

The hillside of Gamcheon Cultural Village, originally populated by refugees from the North during the War, is now an artist community with craft shops.

There is plenty to see, do and enjoy in Busan, including high-end shopping (you should see the lines!); but allergic to long waits and to expensive places, we bypassed it all. However, not to miss was taking the high-speed train from Busan back to Seoul; thankfully we were not attacked by Zombies.

Despite extensive walking, I was at least five pounds heavier due mainly to the succulent seafood stews, Jeju black pork barbecues, Korean beer and soju. 

We headed home filled with memories of our travel adventures etched in our minds and to be relived through the many photos we took.

Korean Folk village parade.

Haenyo women chanting.