by Richard Bridle Richard on the Taedonggang River I couldn't count the number of conversations where those words, or something of the like, got said. Perhaps I should attempt an answer. Where to begin? North Korea is said to be so unique that gaining a proper understanding of the context seems pretty obvious. Listen and read. My reading, fortuitously redirected due to the absence of other (1) literature in Pyongyang to bookstores in Seoul, South Korea (2), quickly taught me that the real context is peninsula-wide. Koreans on each side of the demilitarised zone are not inherently different, though they have more recently followed divergent paths. Listening was one of the principal social activities of almost every day. It helps to be versed in some of the vices the world has to offer. A regular cigarette break outside the office building, even in sub-zero temperatures, offered the opportunity to chat informally with the North Korean government employees, also hardened smokers, sec...