AN INTRODUCTION TO THE PALIO: Fouad Kronfol

For those who read and appreciated my article "A Sportscar Named Annick". there is a section which I had not included because I had no photos to illustrate the event. Just found a few photos that had been filed away and forgotten, hence the new article.

We were driving from Rome to Turin, and while we were admiring the beautiful Tuscan country-side, Maria turned and said,"I bet you have never seen a Palio". Of course I had not, since I had never even heard the word. After she explained  what it was she veered out of the highway and headed for the beautiful medieval town of Siena. We were lucky to find lodging and enjoyed over the next two days one of the most spectacular manifestations of Italian culture, the annual Palio.

Every year on 2 July and 16 August the ancient Tuscan town of Siena celebrates this spectacular medieval tradition dating back to 1633. It consists of a horse race and competition between the city's districts (contrade). Each contrada, of which there are 17, has its own emblem and colors which are displayed on flags and other items. The race itself is  between ten horses ridden bare-back by jockeys representing each contrada. It is held in the shell-shaped Piazza del Campo in the middle of the town. The actual race consists of three laps around the perimeter of the piazza and usually lasts no longer than 90 seconds.It is quite a feat to keep the horses at full gallop within the narrow confines of the "track"while maneuvering to out run the other nine horses. Often there are accidents and in the one we saw one jockey was thrown off his horse and hit the barricades  while his horse continued to run until the end of the  race. Apparently, even a horse without a jockey can be declared the winner if it meets certain conditions. In this case it came in third.

But the Palio is also a four day festivity that all the town's population celebrate with much gusto. The first day is the "tratte" where lots are drawn to determine which ten horses will be included in the race. Since there are 17 contrade it results that some horses  will run more times than others and therefore have more chances to win the coveted trophy or prize which is called the "Drappellone" or the "Cencio", literally the rag. 

The Palio consists of an original painting on fabric (silk) and has a particular size, that of an elongated rectangle; it is supported vertically on a black and white rod and surmounted by a silver plate and with two black and white plumes that descend sideways. The palio remains the property of the Contrada, as well as the rod and the plumes. The plate is returned to the Municipality of Siena before the two Palii of the following year, after having engraved the name of the winning Contrada and the date of the victory in the back. There is a silver plate for the July Palio and one for the August Palio.

Then there are 6 trial runs with the horses and the jockeys getting the feel of the circuit. On the eve of the race the whole town is invited to open-air dinners in each of the contrade where there is much music, singing, laughter and enjoyment. People also go around the town looking at the decorations of the other contrade. This was a most enjoyable evening which lasted well into the night.

On race day at 0800 there is a formal mass celebrated in each of the town's many churches for the jockeys (messa del fantino). At 1030 the names of the ten racing jockeys are confirmed (segnatura dei fantini) by the organizers. At 1500 pm. all the racing horses are blessed in the church of each of the contrade. At 1700 pm starts the parades that precede the actual race. 

In retrospect this was one of those "once in a lifetime" experiences which I was fortunate to have had. It is truly a special event with its history, its traditions, its pageantry and its place as one of Siena's most important touristic assets. The horse race itself is an exceptional sporting event - imagine riding bare back in that narrow "track" around the piazza and having to turn corners that are sometimes quite sharp, all the time trying to beat the other nine riders and their horses! But most of all it is the whole package of different events which leaves an indelible impression when you take part in these festivities.

Here are a few photos of that time of the different parades.

This is the Piazza del Campo which was starting to fill up with spectators. Once the parades and the race start no one can leave this space until the event is concluded.

The Piazza is swarming with people as the "Drappellone" or "Cencio" (which is the main prize of the competition) is carried around.

This is the parade of young men dressed in medieval costumes representing each of the contrade.

Parade of the musicians and trumpeters.

A favourite of the crowd are these young men who are flag throwers. They twirl and toss up high their flags and catch them on the way down in a very dramatic fashion.

Parade of medieval foot soldiers and the "Drappellone".

Parade of horse-back warriors in full mail and armour.

Parade of the very elegant cavalry men belonging to the Carabinieri.

The horses are pulling the town elders with trumpeters and the Drappellone.