“I was just thinking….”, said Annelore one day towards the end of last year. Whenever I hear those words, I know there’s something special or problematic coming up; but on that occasion it was an idea that turned out to be very special. “Let’s go to Bali in February and see it properly”, she said. So, instead of having a big party for a landmark birthday and other anniversaries, we decided to go to Bali …and for a month, no less. No point in going all that way for a week’s holiday. We love to travel and had not been on a major trip since before the pandemic. Bali would be extra-special: apart from Annelore’s birthday and our 44th wedding anniversary, it would be approximately 50 years since I first visited Bali as a young UNA-UK volunteer attached to the UNICEF office in Jakarta. We had also stopped over briefly in 1979 on what was a home-leave/belated honeymoon trip. In those days, mass tourism in Bali had not yet developed, even in 1979. In 2013 we had taken part in the XUNICEF reunion when we had a wonderful time, but we had stayed for less than a week. It had whetted our appetite, despite the dramatic changes - we must come back, we had said. So, this would be our first in-depth visit to the “Island of the Gods”.
Sometimes, for very special places, it’s better just to stay with one’s memories so as not to be disappointed by the changes that may have taken place. Would this be the case with Bali? It has grown exponentially as a tourist destination since those first visits in the early 70s when Bali, or more accurately Kuta Beach, was the end of the road for so many overland travellers and backpackers who had made their way across Asia from Europe. It was also the place where VSO volunteers and other like-minded young people living in Indonesia headed whenever they could: Bali was different from the rest of Indonesia.
 |
| Easy riders back in 1974 |
We didn’t actually plan very much – just booked the first week in a hotel in Ubud, still regarded as the cultural heart of Bali. As February is low season anyway and tourism is only just beginning to recover from the disastrous effects of the pandemic, we had the luxury of being able to make plans as we went along…..just like in the old days! Of course the internet and cell phones (everyone uses WhatsApp in Indonesia) have made everything so much easier: it was now so simple to make a booking (and get a good deal!) and even book a ride up the road or across the island (Grab is the App of choice in this part of the world). And of course there is so much information one can get regarding traveling on the island. Nothing is secret anymore.
So, did it meet our expectations? We were under no illusions that we would find the old unchanged Bali – in 2013 we had already seen the dramatic developments and changes that had taken place, not all of them positive – but we still hoped for a little bit of the magic that makes Bali so special. And we were not disappointed!
“Aduh! Saya belum lahir!”…a frequent reaction when I told people that the first time I came to Bali was 50 years ago! Given that 75% of the population of Indonesia is under 65, it’s hardly surprising that most people would say they hadn’t been born yet.
For our eventual itinerary we ended up doing a mix of the familiar with the new, avoiding some of the better-known places (some of which we had already visited on previous occasions) whilst exploring some lesser-known spots.
Ubud
 |
| View from our hotel towards the mountains of Central Bali |
We had been to Ubud in 2013 so the fact that it had changed from a quiet rural village epitomising Bali’s traditional culture and art into a bustling tourist town was no surprise; but the traffic on the main roads was something of a shock: there are motorcycles everywhere, being ridden or parked en masse; the cars touting for tourists’ business are almost all large SUVs and if you don’t want to risk riding a motorcycle, that’s how you get around. “Bemos” (tuk-tuks) disappeared many years ago. Many foreign tourists and the increasing number of domestic ones rent motorcycles. We missed the freedom and flexibility that come with being able to jump on a motorbike which was what we did in the 70s. On the other hand, on school days around mid-day it’s madness on the main road in Ubud, as it probably is throughout Indonesia I suspect.
 |
| Main street in Ubud |
 |
| In the fields just outside Ubud, life carries on much as before |
 |
| The birthday girl at breakfast with a surprise cake! |
Gianyar’s main attraction is its night market. It was not at its most bustling early on a Monday evening. Weekends are the time to go when whole families descend to eat and buy things they didn’t know they needed. But it was still a fascinating visual and cultural experience. We seemed to be the only foreign tourists and as such became a bit of an attraction ourselves! We sat on a bench in a Warung with a group of Balinese motorcyclists and had two bowls of “Mie Bakso” with tea for the princely sum of IDR 40,000 (equivalent to about US$2.40!!). Not the most exquisite meal we had while we were in Bali, but still delicious and very much part of the local food culture.
 |
| Tropical Fish for sale |
 |
| Fast Food, Indonesian style |
Bedugul, Lake Beratan and Munduk
We decided to next spend a few days in an area that we did not know from previous visits but which seemed more like the old Bali, away from the beach life and fancy hotels of modern South Bali and the bustle of Ubud, namely the area around the town of Bedugul/Candikuning and Lake Beratan, almost in the middle of the island and several hundred metres higher and thus much cooler.
On the shores of the lake at Bedugul is one of Bali’s most important and iconic temples – Pura Ulun Danu Beratan – and the most photographed apparently. Easy to understand why.
Even in poor weather it is stunning and magical. It gets absolutely packed at weekends and even during the week it was crowded. Still, it certainly has a large dose of Balinese magic about it.
Apart from admiring the various parts of the magnificent and sprawling temple complex, we enjoyed watching and interacting with local tourists – many from Java – for whom we became something of an attraction. One large group of ladies visiting from Jakarta (they came all the way by bus!!) was particularly fascinated by the idea of two senior citizens still traveling the world (as well as by the fact that we came all the way to Bali to celebrate our anniversary!) and we ended up in several group photos and selfies!
Apart from admiring the various parts of the magnificent and sprawling temple complex, we enjoyed watching and interacting with local tourists – many from Java – for whom we became something of an attraction. One large group of ladies visiting from Jakarta (they came all the way by bus!!) was particularly fascinated by the idea of two senior citizens still traveling the world (as well as by the fact that we came all the way to Bali to celebrate our anniversary!) and we ended up in several group photos and selfies!
We stayed in a charming flower-filled compound of traditional style cottages on the outskirts of Bedugul, owned by the same people who established the legendary “Poppies” in Kuta back in 1973. (more of which later).
The guidebook promised stunning views of Lake Beratan at dawn, but the weather was not very cooperative. Nevertheless, on a couple of days early risers were rewarded with some stunning views towards Gunung Agung as the sun rose directly behind Bali’s highest peak and broke through the clouds.
The guidebook promised stunning views of Lake Beratan at dawn, but the weather was not very cooperative. Nevertheless, on a couple of days early risers were rewarded with some stunning views towards Gunung Agung as the sun rose directly behind Bali’s highest peak and broke through the clouds.
From Bedugul we also visited the famous Jatiluwuh rice terraces, a UNESCO heritage site.
One of the magical things about Bali is that you never know when you might be lucky enough to run into a traditional Balinese temple ceremony or celebration. As we were driving out of Bedugul towards Munduk, we came across preparations for a wedding ceremony, right on the main road.
The village of Munduk - it was here that the Dutch colonial rulers established plantations of coffee, cloves and other spices in the early 20th century and built the first holiday cottages as escapes from the sweltering heat of Denpasar and the coast. The area is now known for its hiking trails and waterfalls as well as its coffee and cloves.
We stayed at the delightful Pura Lumbang Cottages in rooms modelled on traditional Balinese rice storage pavilions…surrounded by lush nature and paddy fields.
In the legendary Poppies’ we found a little bit of the old Kuta magic, hidden away from all the hustle and bustle. Originally it was just a warung on a dusty lane off the main (i.e. only!) road in Kuta. It opened as Poppies’ in 1973 and served the best breakfast in town! Now it’s a lovely restaurant and also a gorgeous boutique hotel which first opened in 1980. We had lunch there and were so taken by the place that on our last evening in Bali a few days later we returned for dinner, on our way to the airport to catch a late flight. We met Jenik (Zenik Sukenny), who had owned the original warung and set up Poppies’. We reminisced a bit about the old days. It was a fitting end to a memorable and magical trip.
Postscript – Lewes, England, April 2023
At the end of April, we went to England to visit family and friends, our first trip there since before the pandemic. By coincidence I was able to attend what has become a fairly regular get-together of a group of ex-Indonesia volunteers who have managed to stay in touch albeit sporadically, thanks primarily to Neil Kemp who was one of the British Council coordinators for VSOs for a while during those distant days. Four of the participants are in the photograph of the “Easy Riders” from 1974. Can you recognise them? Interestingly, although some had not met in 50 years, everyone has been back to Bali or other parts of Indonesia at least once over the years, some several times. The rapport was instant, as if the years had not passed. And yes, that is Steve Woodhouse in the brown jacket!
Heading for Munduk, we drove off the main road down to another temple on the edge of a lake - Pura Dalem Tamblingan.
...
 |
| Monkeys on the road to Munduk = much less agressive than the ones in the famous Monkey Forest in Ubud  |
 |
| Clove Plantation in Munduk |
The village of Munduk - it was here that the Dutch colonial rulers established plantations of coffee, cloves and other spices in the early 20th century and built the first holiday cottages as escapes from the sweltering heat of Denpasar and the coast. The area is now known for its hiking trails and waterfalls as well as its coffee and cloves.
 |
| Temple in Munduk |
 |
| Pura Lumbang Cottages |
 |
| The future of Balinese dance is assured - a class of young dancers practicing at Pura Lumbang Cottages |
The Beach: needless to say, though we are not into lying on the beach for days on end, we had to spend some time by the sea and chose Sanur, the venue of the 2013 XUNICEF reunion. Sanur used to be looked-down-upon in the old days – it was where the cruise liners were beginning to stop and where the better-off tourists stayed; but now it’s a popular beach area without the hype of the more iconic and Instagrammable beaches and resorts … and with stunning sunrises! Desperate to get tourism in Bali going again after the pandemic, many hotels were offerings deals one could not refuse.
 |
| Part of the beach at Sanur - early morning |
 |
| Sunrise on Sanur beach at low tide |
But even in Sanur, Balinese culture endures. There was a temple down a lane behind our hotel. The lady runs a nearby warung and makes an offering every morning…so that her business will prosper.
Kuta
And so to Kuta. If ever a place could be called legendary, it was Kuta, back in the day. For old times’ sake we went down one afternoon. We knew more or less what to expect even though we had avoided it in 2013. The village is now a small bustling town. The beach was a disappointment, a concrete path now running along much of its length, with a busy road a few metres further back; the former quiet lanes of the village are now packed with hotels, shops and other services for the millions of tourists who still like to visit.
 |
| Temple offerings Sanur |
And so to Kuta. If ever a place could be called legendary, it was Kuta, back in the day. For old times’ sake we went down one afternoon. We knew more or less what to expect even though we had avoided it in 2013. The village is now a small bustling town. The beach was a disappointment, a concrete path now running along much of its length, with a busy road a few metres further back; the former quiet lanes of the village are now packed with hotels, shops and other services for the millions of tourists who still like to visit.
But the sunset was still spectacular!
 |
| Sunset on Kuta Beach |
In the legendary Poppies’ we found a little bit of the old Kuta magic, hidden away from all the hustle and bustle. Originally it was just a warung on a dusty lane off the main (i.e. only!) road in Kuta. It opened as Poppies’ in 1973 and served the best breakfast in town! Now it’s a lovely restaurant and also a gorgeous boutique hotel which first opened in 1980. We had lunch there and were so taken by the place that on our last evening in Bali a few days later we returned for dinner, on our way to the airport to catch a late flight. We met Jenik (Zenik Sukenny), who had owned the original warung and set up Poppies’. We reminisced a bit about the old days. It was a fitting end to a memorable and magical trip.
At the end of April, we went to England to visit family and friends, our first trip there since before the pandemic. By coincidence I was able to attend what has become a fairly regular get-together of a group of ex-Indonesia volunteers who have managed to stay in touch albeit sporadically, thanks primarily to Neil Kemp who was one of the British Council coordinators for VSOs for a while during those distant days. Four of the participants are in the photograph of the “Easy Riders” from 1974. Can you recognise them? Interestingly, although some had not met in 50 years, everyone has been back to Bali or other parts of Indonesia at least once over the years, some several times. The rapport was instant, as if the years had not passed. And yes, that is Steve Woodhouse in the brown jacket!
Tad Palac may be reached at <>
You can see some of Tad's photography by clicking on the below links:
Dear Tad and Annelore,
ReplyDeleteYour photos and the memories are magical, beautiful and a treasure. I was thrilled to review.
My special appreciation in compiling and sharing with us.
Joys and fond wishes from Natalie Hahn
Many thanks for sharing your trip report and photos, Tad!
ReplyDeleteTerrific pics Tad and Annelore, and as I said at the time, you shoukd’ve zipped down to Melbourne for an encore. Happy anniversary!
ReplyDeleteMost enjoyable reading Tad with fabulous photos. Many thanks for sharing ❤️😊🌹
ReplyDeleteLovely loved the fresh fruit stall. Happy birthday annelore and anniversary to you both
ReplyDeleteRohini
Thanks Tad for your interesting travel report, Bali certainly is a magical place and I treasure the four hours I spent at a resort near Denpasar airport, when Garuda forgot to pick up the VIP passengers (Liv Ullmann etc) and we had to wait for the next flight. Sadly, there were no temples.
ReplyDelete