Book Review : 'Outposts Journeys to the Surviving Relics of the British Empire' by Simon Winchester Reviewed by Horst Cerni
Last week Horst reviewed 'The Not-Quite States of America' by Doug Mack. (click here to read, if you missed last week's review and Horst's introduction).
'The 'Not-Quite States...' was the first of two books Horst has reviewed for us recently.. This week he tells of Simon Winchester's 'Outposts'. Both books look at islands which were once the stepping stones of colonial empires and they are still dependent territories. Today they may seem to be anomalies in a world of large and heavily populated nations. They are administered by a far-away Government in London - and often forgotten. Acknowledged or not, they form important parts of our global community. They deserve closer attention by all of us.
As Horst explained last week, islands have a magical attraction for him. He met his future wife on the big island of Manhattan and got married and retired on her home island in the Caribbean, where they are in the Virgin Islands - a US Territory.
Horst previously reviewed for News & Views a biography of Audrey Hepburn : 'Warrior: Audrey Hepburn' by Robert Matzen.
......
In 1945, when the UN was established, there were 97 non-self governing territories. In follow-up to the League of Nations charter, the UN GA established the Trusteeship Council to provide international supervision for eleven Trust territories and to make sure that adequate steps were taken to prepare the territories for self-government or independence. The Trust Territories were administered by several countries, and by 1994 all territories had attained self-government or independence. The last one was Palau, which became the 195th member of the UN.
Judging from the investigations of Doug Mack and Simon Winchester, it appears that few territories are truly self-governing and far from becoming independent (or States).
It’s worth noting that in addition to the UN having labeled the territories as “colonies”, the International Olympic Committee as well as FIFA consider the territories as independent “states” allowing participation at the games under their own flags.
“Outposts
In 1945, when the UN was established, there were 97 non-self governing territories. In follow-up to the League of Nations charter, the UN GA established the Trusteeship Council to provide international supervision for eleven Trust territories and to make sure that adequate steps were taken to prepare the territories for self-government or independence. The Trust Territories were administered by several countries, and by 1994 all territories had attained self-government or independence. The last one was Palau, which became the 195th member of the UN.
Judging from the investigations of Doug Mack and Simon Winchester, it appears that few territories are truly self-governing and far from becoming independent (or States).
It’s worth noting that in addition to the UN having labelled the territories as “colonies”, the International Olympic Committee as well as FIFA consider the territories as independent “states” allowing participation at the games under their own flags.
Simon Winchester (SW) has a different point of view concerning colonies and he sees a lot of good in the system (at least related to British administrations). In his book “Outposts - Journeys to the Surviving Relics of the British Empire” (written in 2003) he describes the effective and democratic institutions in Hong Kong, but he also questions the need for other territories to continue under British rule. And he believes that there is a new kind of “Super Empire” in the form of globalization - giant corporations which control national economies and exploit workers for the benefit of stockholders. He wonders if it could be a “brand-new form of American colonialism” .
Most colonies have not developed positively. Pitcairn, for example, has decayed in the twenty years since his visit in 1984, Residents were leaving. The islands are difficult to reach, only by boat. Diego Garcia is completely off limits to visitors. The population was expelled in 1970 to make room for an American military base. The court decided that this was unjust, but the US Navy stayed and most people are still living in exile in Mauritius.
Sixteen groups of rocks and atolls were officially classified as dependent territories of the British Empire, but few are considered important - or could provide any benefits. The British navy named remote islands as “ships”, like HMS Ascension. It is a military base and communications relay station. Despite its isolation and difficulty to reach, it was an important transfer point during the Falklands war - a 14 hour flight.
It is a dependency of St. Helena - “the loneliest major outpost of the British Empire” - some 2000 km (1200 miles) from the nearest land in SW Africa. It has been neglected by the British Government and the residents have suffered economic downturns. There is only one ship providing a lifeline to England, and there is no airport. Nevertheless, the “Saints” (as the islanders are called) are very attached to their island as well as to the British way of life and her Majesty. The author refers to it as “an England of 6,000 miles away and one hundred years ago”. Because of its remoteness, the island was used to exile Napoleon Bonaparte in 1815 and he remained there until his death in 1821.
The only British colony in Europe is Gibraltar, a peninsula in Southern Spain. It has been an important navy base. (The author had walked to the border from Algeciras and was refused entry. He had to take a boat to Tangiers and then from there to Gibraltar). His impression of this “Rock” is that of a prison and not very attractive. It has belonged to Britain since 1713 and had successfully defended itself against several Spanish attacks. Inhabitants are recognized as full British citizens and can settle in England, if they choose to.
In 1945, when the UN was established, there were 97 non-self governing territories. In follow-up to the League of Nations charter, the UN GA established the Trusteeship Council to provide international supervision for eleven Trust territories and to make sure that adequate steps were taken to prepare the territories for self-government or independence. The Trust Territories were administered by several countries, and by 1994 all territories had attained self-government or independence. The last one was Palau, which became the 195th member of the UN.
Judging from the investigations of Doug Mack and Simon Winchester, it appears that few territories are truly self-governing and far from becoming independent (or States).
It’s worth noting that in addition to the UN having labeled the territories as “colonies”, the International Olympic Committee as well as FIFA consider the territories as independent “states” allowing participation at the games under their own flags.
“Outposts
- Journeys to the Surviving Relics of the British Empire”
By Simon Winchester
(Diego Garcia, Ascension, St.Helena, Gibraltar, Hong Kong, Bermuda,
Turks and Caicos Islands, British Virgin Islands, Anguila, Montserrat,
Cayman Islands, Falkland Islands and Pitcairn)
Judging from the investigations of Doug Mack and Simon Winchester, it appears that few territories are truly self-governing and far from becoming independent (or States).
It’s worth noting that in addition to the UN having labelled the territories as “colonies”, the International Olympic Committee as well as FIFA consider the territories as independent “states” allowing participation at the games under their own flags.
Simon Winchester (SW) has a different point of view concerning colonies and he sees a lot of good in the system (at least related to British administrations). In his book “Outposts - Journeys to the Surviving Relics of the British Empire” (written in 2003) he describes the effective and democratic institutions in Hong Kong, but he also questions the need for other territories to continue under British rule. And he believes that there is a new kind of “Super Empire” in the form of globalization - giant corporations which control national economies and exploit workers for the benefit of stockholders. He wonders if it could be a “brand-new form of American colonialism” .
Most colonies have not developed positively. Pitcairn, for example, has decayed in the twenty years since his visit in 1984, Residents were leaving. The islands are difficult to reach, only by boat. Diego Garcia is completely off limits to visitors. The population was expelled in 1970 to make room for an American military base. The court decided that this was unjust, but the US Navy stayed and most people are still living in exile in Mauritius.
Sixteen groups of rocks and atolls were officially classified as dependent territories of the British Empire, but few are considered important - or could provide any benefits. The British navy named remote islands as “ships”, like HMS Ascension. It is a military base and communications relay station. Despite its isolation and difficulty to reach, it was an important transfer point during the Falklands war - a 14 hour flight.
It is a dependency of St. Helena - “the loneliest major outpost of the British Empire” - some 2000 km (1200 miles) from the nearest land in SW Africa. It has been neglected by the British Government and the residents have suffered economic downturns. There is only one ship providing a lifeline to England, and there is no airport. Nevertheless, the “Saints” (as the islanders are called) are very attached to their island as well as to the British way of life and her Majesty. The author refers to it as “an England of 6,000 miles away and one hundred years ago”. Because of its remoteness, the island was used to exile Napoleon Bonaparte in 1815 and he remained there until his death in 1821.
The only British colony in Europe is Gibraltar, a peninsula in Southern Spain. It has been an important navy base. (The author had walked to the border from Algeciras and was refused entry. He had to take a boat to Tangiers and then from there to Gibraltar). His impression of this “Rock” is that of a prison and not very attractive. It has belonged to Britain since 1713 and had successfully defended itself against several Spanish attacks. Inhabitants are recognized as full British citizens and can settle in England, if they choose to.
Hong Kong was acquired by Great Britain after the Opium wars from 1841, 1842 and 1860, and obtained a 99 year lease for the New Territories in 1898. It was a rather rural area at that time with fishing villages, but has since grown to one of the most densely and varied populations in the world, as well as the most wealthy. It probably was the most successful British colony, and the author was mesmerized by its vivacity, “so rich, so powerful and so magical”. He spends quite a bit of time on the history of Hong Kong as well as surrounding areas. In 1997 It became the only Crown colony to be subsumed into a neighboring nation - the People’s Republic of China.as the “Special Administrative Region of Xianggang - Hong Kong.”.
On the other side of the world, close to the US East Coast, is England's only remaining Crown colony, Bermuda. It is a major tourist destination, especially for American cruise ship passengers, who are enchanted by the Britishness of the island and the tropical nature. But the author also discovered that it is an American military base with war planes parked on the tarmac and air traffic controllers from the US Navy. The islanders have accepted the Americans but have a mixed feeling about being British, although except for the Governor, all major Government positions are filled by Bermudians. There is not much interest in independence, although London has stated that the islanders could become independent if they wish to and had the capacity to support themselves.
Some 850 miles to the South, just North of Cuba, are the Turks and Caicos Islands in the British West Indies. Bermudians discovered salt lakes and harvested the salt for export to the US mainland. It was very profitable for the merchants, but very hard work for the African slaves. Bermuda found a way to mechanize the production of salt which meant the end of the business for the Turks and Caicos islanders. Then cotton was introduced, and now the main income comes from lobster and conch fishing and as a tax haven. But the population is generally poor and the islands are considered the least developed of the British territories. Unfortunately, it’s scattered islands also serve as a transshipment point for drugs.
Although he British West Indies islands are only approximately 800 km from the Virgin Islands, there is no direct flight and one has to travel via Miami and Puerto Rico. The airport is on Beef Island, which is the only flat area, and a bridge leads to Tortola Both Tortola and Virgin Gorda can be reached by boat and ferry from St.Thomas.. Road Town, the capital, appeared run down, not at all glittery like its neighbor St.Thomas, but the people are proud to be British, even if they can’t live in the UK. When Columbus arrived in this area on his second voyage in 1493, he was impressed to see so many islands, and so he dedicated them to Santa Ursula and her 11,000 virgin martyrs. There are not that many islands, but 80 is still impressive. Some are privately owned, while Virgin Gorda and Jost van Dyke have nice resorts. The islanders are relaxed and happy to live under the Union Jack, even if they wished for more development aid.
The neighboring island of Anguila is the newest of the British territories. It is seldom visited, since there is no direct connection, and it is considered unimportant. The soil is poor, there is little to exploit, so the landowners gave the slaves four days off to cultivate their own fields. But the island is of strategic importance and in 1982 became a Crown Colony and got a royal governor. There was an effort to improve the town and one solution was to make Anguila a tax haven.
Less than 200 km South is the island of Montserrat. It has three volcanoes, but only one is active and erupted in July of 1995 devastating most of the capitol. Two thirds of the population had to flee, most to England. It has hardly been rebuilt. Volcanic activity continues. (In 2010 the airport was covered by lava, and as of 2012 a new capital is being built at Little Bay)
Many Irishmen immigrated to Montserrat and they call it the “Emerald Isle - our Ireland in the Sun.” It was famous for its limes, which were destroyed by a hurricane, then a special kind of cotton was grown and sugar, but all failed. A successful recording studio, though, attracted artists like Paul McCarthy, Elton John, Stevie Wonder, etc., and there was also a hospice for cancer patients.
Probably the most successful and wealthiest of the British colonies are the Cayman Islands. They were dependent on Jamaica, but when that island became independent, the Caymanians decided to become a crown colony. The Cayman Islands depend primarily on tourism and financial services. More than 440 banks and over 17,000 insurance and other companies are registered there. Off-shore banking is very attractive to evade taxes, and it can also be used to launder illegal monies, like from drug deals. Investigating banking is not allowed. It’s all about money, and there is very little West Indian flair. It seems like an outpost from Florida rather than the British Empire.
All the way down, some eight thousand kilometers away, are the Falkland Islands, a British territory claimed by Argentina as Las Islas Malvinas. Argentine schoolchildren had learned about these “Argentine islands” for years, yet British textbooks barely mentioned them, although the first settlers arrived there already in 1680. Forlorn and forgotten in the South Atlantic, but the residents liked it that way. This cold windswept area was their home and that of 750,000 sheep (- 400 per inhabitant) and thousands of penguins. The author was sent to the islands in April of 1982 because “something was brewing” and he caught the last Argentine commercial flight from Comodoro Rivadavia in the Patagonia to Port Stanley. Everything seemed calm, not even the few military seemed to be concerned. The island had generally been of little interest to other nations, but in 1914 during the first Falkland battle against an invading German fleet, the Falklanders sank the German battleship, and this day is one of the main celebrations every year.
Some Argentine workers had arrived at one of the islands to disassemble an old whaling plant. The British didn’t pay much attention and let them be. But a few months later, In April of 1982, Argentina decided to invade the Falklands. This was a major assault and several battleships were involved. There basically was no British defense and within six hours the Argentine flag went up, and the islands were now officially Las Malvinas. Street signs were changed and traffic moved to the right side and everybody was taught Spanish. Britain mobilized and assembled a massive battle fleet, even refitting ocean liners for troop transport. British troops landed mid May and after three weeks of fighting Britain was in charge again and the Union Jack replaced the Argentine flag..
Sadly, 1,300 people had lost their lives and much of the infrastructure was destroyed. SW couldn’t report about the war. He was captured and imprisoned in Ushuaia for three months.
On the other side of South America are the islands of Pitcairn, 5,900 km from Peru and 1,900 km to Easter Island. It is the only British territory in the Pacific Ocean, made famous as the refuge for the 19 mutineers of the “HMS Bounty” in 1789 . It’s neglected and the population of Pitcairn is only 44 and shrinking. It seems that the British Foreign Office expects it will eventually be depopulated like the other three islands. The closest British administration official resides in Auckland, some 3,000 miles away. A ship bringing supplies comes twice a year.
An American millionaire once wanted to buy Henderson Island, the largest of the group, and build an airport and provide ferry service to the main island, the only one which is populated, But the Foreign Office said that Crown Colonies are not for sale and certainly not to aliens. Well, the millionaire offered more and the Foreign Office started thinking about it. But then the World Wildlife Fund objected to any development of the pristine island which has a variety of unique flora and fauna.
Simon Winchester didn’t make it to Pitcairn, and he was wondering if some of the other territories should have been included in his book about the remaining British colonies, like South Georgia and the Antarctic (which have no population), the Isle of Man and the Channel Islands which “are true dependencies of the Crown.” He decided to go Ireland, though, and recalls the role of the territories, like Northern Ireland, and how the Empire broke up. He considers the coronation of Queen Elizabeth in June 1953 a “last celebration of the Empire.”
On the other side of the world, close to the US East Coast, is England's only remaining Crown colony, Bermuda. It is a major tourist destination, especially for American cruise ship passengers, who are enchanted by the Britishness of the island and the tropical nature. But the author also discovered that it is an American military base with war planes parked on the tarmac and air traffic controllers from the US Navy. The islanders have accepted the Americans but have a mixed feeling about being British, although except for the Governor, all major Government positions are filled by Bermudians. There is not much interest in independence, although London has stated that the islanders could become independent if they wish to and had the capacity to support themselves.
Some 850 miles to the South, just North of Cuba, are the Turks and Caicos Islands in the British West Indies. Bermudians discovered salt lakes and harvested the salt for export to the US mainland. It was very profitable for the merchants, but very hard work for the African slaves. Bermuda found a way to mechanize the production of salt which meant the end of the business for the Turks and Caicos islanders. Then cotton was introduced, and now the main income comes from lobster and conch fishing and as a tax haven. But the population is generally poor and the islands are considered the least developed of the British territories. Unfortunately, it’s scattered islands also serve as a transshipment point for drugs.
Although he British West Indies islands are only approximately 800 km from the Virgin Islands, there is no direct flight and one has to travel via Miami and Puerto Rico. The airport is on Beef Island, which is the only flat area, and a bridge leads to Tortola Both Tortola and Virgin Gorda can be reached by boat and ferry from St.Thomas.. Road Town, the capital, appeared run down, not at all glittery like its neighbor St.Thomas, but the people are proud to be British, even if they can’t live in the UK. When Columbus arrived in this area on his second voyage in 1493, he was impressed to see so many islands, and so he dedicated them to Santa Ursula and her 11,000 virgin martyrs. There are not that many islands, but 80 is still impressive. Some are privately owned, while Virgin Gorda and Jost van Dyke have nice resorts. The islanders are relaxed and happy to live under the Union Jack, even if they wished for more development aid.
The neighboring island of Anguila is the newest of the British territories. It is seldom visited, since there is no direct connection, and it is considered unimportant. The soil is poor, there is little to exploit, so the landowners gave the slaves four days off to cultivate their own fields. But the island is of strategic importance and in 1982 became a Crown Colony and got a royal governor. There was an effort to improve the town and one solution was to make Anguila a tax haven.
Less than 200 km South is the island of Montserrat. It has three volcanoes, but only one is active and erupted in July of 1995 devastating most of the capitol. Two thirds of the population had to flee, most to England. It has hardly been rebuilt. Volcanic activity continues. (In 2010 the airport was covered by lava, and as of 2012 a new capital is being built at Little Bay)
Many Irishmen immigrated to Montserrat and they call it the “Emerald Isle - our Ireland in the Sun.” It was famous for its limes, which were destroyed by a hurricane, then a special kind of cotton was grown and sugar, but all failed. A successful recording studio, though, attracted artists like Paul McCarthy, Elton John, Stevie Wonder, etc., and there was also a hospice for cancer patients.
Probably the most successful and wealthiest of the British colonies are the Cayman Islands. They were dependent on Jamaica, but when that island became independent, the Caymanians decided to become a crown colony. The Cayman Islands depend primarily on tourism and financial services. More than 440 banks and over 17,000 insurance and other companies are registered there. Off-shore banking is very attractive to evade taxes, and it can also be used to launder illegal monies, like from drug deals. Investigating banking is not allowed. It’s all about money, and there is very little West Indian flair. It seems like an outpost from Florida rather than the British Empire.
All the way down, some eight thousand kilometers away, are the Falkland Islands, a British territory claimed by Argentina as Las Islas Malvinas. Argentine schoolchildren had learned about these “Argentine islands” for years, yet British textbooks barely mentioned them, although the first settlers arrived there already in 1680. Forlorn and forgotten in the South Atlantic, but the residents liked it that way. This cold windswept area was their home and that of 750,000 sheep (- 400 per inhabitant) and thousands of penguins. The author was sent to the islands in April of 1982 because “something was brewing” and he caught the last Argentine commercial flight from Comodoro Rivadavia in the Patagonia to Port Stanley. Everything seemed calm, not even the few military seemed to be concerned. The island had generally been of little interest to other nations, but in 1914 during the first Falkland battle against an invading German fleet, the Falklanders sank the German battleship, and this day is one of the main celebrations every year.
Some Argentine workers had arrived at one of the islands to disassemble an old whaling plant. The British didn’t pay much attention and let them be. But a few months later, In April of 1982, Argentina decided to invade the Falklands. This was a major assault and several battleships were involved. There basically was no British defense and within six hours the Argentine flag went up, and the islands were now officially Las Malvinas. Street signs were changed and traffic moved to the right side and everybody was taught Spanish. Britain mobilized and assembled a massive battle fleet, even refitting ocean liners for troop transport. British troops landed mid May and after three weeks of fighting Britain was in charge again and the Union Jack replaced the Argentine flag..
Sadly, 1,300 people had lost their lives and much of the infrastructure was destroyed. SW couldn’t report about the war. He was captured and imprisoned in Ushuaia for three months.
On the other side of South America are the islands of Pitcairn, 5,900 km from Peru and 1,900 km to Easter Island. It is the only British territory in the Pacific Ocean, made famous as the refuge for the 19 mutineers of the “HMS Bounty” in 1789 . It’s neglected and the population of Pitcairn is only 44 and shrinking. It seems that the British Foreign Office expects it will eventually be depopulated like the other three islands. The closest British administration official resides in Auckland, some 3,000 miles away. A ship bringing supplies comes twice a year.
An American millionaire once wanted to buy Henderson Island, the largest of the group, and build an airport and provide ferry service to the main island, the only one which is populated, But the Foreign Office said that Crown Colonies are not for sale and certainly not to aliens. Well, the millionaire offered more and the Foreign Office started thinking about it. But then the World Wildlife Fund objected to any development of the pristine island which has a variety of unique flora and fauna.
Simon Winchester didn’t make it to Pitcairn, and he was wondering if some of the other territories should have been included in his book about the remaining British colonies, like South Georgia and the Antarctic (which have no population), the Isle of Man and the Channel Islands which “are true dependencies of the Crown.” He decided to go Ireland, though, and recalls the role of the territories, like Northern Ireland, and how the Empire broke up. He considers the coronation of Queen Elizabeth in June 1953 a “last celebration of the Empire.”
You may know that LINK TV shows an interesting Canadian program “Island Diaries” which has included territories mentioned in the books I had reviewed, I.e. Montserrat, Palau and the Falkland Islands, where tourists are now coming on cruises and can stay for a week in a private home, since there isn’t enough hotel space. There is still war damage and military junk all over, but most people simply want to get close to the penguins.
ReplyDeleteAnyhow, it’s interesting to get a visual update. Here it airs on Tuesday evenings.
Regards, Horst.