While originally from Puerto Rico, I now live New Jersey. I was last there in March 2020, at the onset of the pandemic. Upon my retirement in September from Princeton University (2013-2021), my goal was to return to the Island for an extended visit. I just returned from a six-week stay, tanned, refreshed, relaxed and full of new memories.
Puerto Rico, the smallest island of the Greater Antilles in the Caribbean, encompasses an area of 100 x 35 square miles with a population of approximately 3 million. Puerto Rico is still recovering from a huge economic crisis, a category 5 hurricane, several earthquakes and most recently, the COVID pandemic. Despite these challenges, I found that my people remain as always, warm and friendly; the Island is still blessed with the most beautiful tropical flora and beaches; the weather is balmy; and, the food is savory and satisfying.
I invited several friends - XUNICEF and some from New Jersey to join us at different times. Our two granddaughters (16 and 11) also joined us on our last stretch.
The successful virus prevention campaign in PR made us feel safe. We moved around quite a bit, visited many historical sites, national parks and beaches, and indulged in eating local delicacies not flattering to the waistline! We had a fantastic time and remained healthy.
Here is a snapshot of places we visited.
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| Panoramic View, El Yunque |
El Yunque Rain Forest, is a 90 minute drive from San Juan. A reservation of $2 per vehicle is now required. The Visitor’s Center just re-opened after a major renovation post hurricane Maria. The structure is quite attractive with an open space concept inviting the forest in. We drove on a narrow, winding, single-lane road, climbing high enough to appreciate the panoramic view that extends as far as the sea. We parked on the side of the road, and hiked to Mount Britton, immersed in the lush green vegetation of the forest. Although it is a rain forest, we had clear skies and plenty of sun. Friendly hikers from different parts of the world waved or introduced themselves along the way. We had a late lunch outdoors at the base of El Yunque.
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| Firehouse Ponce |
We went on a day trip to Ponce, the second major city located on the southern coast. The drive from San Juan encompasses the full width of the Island (35 miles) via the expressway, cutting through the Sierra de Cayey mountain range that leads to a dryer south. Ponce is proud of its history and its people. The first firehouse in Puerto Rico is located on the main square, next to the Cathedral.
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| Ponce City Hall |
Ponce was at the epicenter of recent earthquakes. Historical buildings, such as the Cathedral and Museum of Ponce, were damaged and were closed to visitors. When we arrived, the Mayor of Ponce was holding a civic event at the bright red and black Firehouse. After strolling through the town square, we indulged in wine tasting at wine bar followed by a succulent meal at a local restaurant. Tired but filled with memories, we headed back to San Juan.
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| Rincon - The setting Sun |
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| Rincon, the sun has set |
After bidding good bye to my two XUNICEF friends and welcoming another set of friends, we turned this time towards the west of the Island. Rincon boasts a beautiful coastline that makes it a surfer’s paradise. We spent three days and could not get enough of the spectacular western sunsets.
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| Surfers' Paradise |
The vibe in Rincon is casual and laid back, typical of any surfing town. Many people from the U.S. have made this area their home and playground.
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| San German |
From Rincon, driving 45 minutes south, we reached the town of San German, the second Spanish settlement after San Juan. The town square is charming with red brick pavers and the historical Porta Coeli Church, perched at the top of steep stairs. Porta Coeli has been nicely restored and one can visit it free of charge. There are also a number of architectural gems in private mansions and two small museums covering local history. We lounged at a local bar waiting for Porta Coeli to open for an afternoon tour. At dusk, the town square glows under the street lamp posts.
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| San Felipe del Morro Fort |
San Juan was our main playground since we stayed for the most part in the metropolitan area. Hence, I intentionally left San Juan, to end this travel account. This year, San Juan celebrates 500 years since its establishment. At one point while on the road, we were gently nudged by a police motorcade; we later learned that it was escorting King Felipe VI of Spain, on his celebratory visit. In Old San Juan, the historical and political capital, we strolled alongside the Spanish fortress of San Felipe del Morro. The concrete pathway took us to the tip of the islet where you can sit and take in the view. We continued on a more rugged path to the front expanse and entrance of El Morro. From El Morro, we strolled along Old San Juan’s blue cobblestoned streets. We refreshed ourselves savoring ice shaved cones with tropical flavors, such as “piraguas”. On different occasions, we encountered the governor’s motorcade as he was leaving or arriving at La Fortaleza, his residence, an historical colonial landmark.
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| Typical Street, Old San Juan |
We spent three days in Old San Juan, in a colonial building recently renovated as a hotel. Old San Juan has some wonderful gourmand restaurants, moderately-priced local eateries and plenty of coffee shops. This, for us was a three day culinary tour. While in San Juan, one cannot miss savoring sweet bread with powdered sugar called “mallorcas” (“ensaimadas” in Spain and the Philippines) and of course, it was a breakfast staple.
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| La Placita |
La Placita is a revitalized working-class neighborhood, whose restaurants and bars attract locals and tourists alike. The Plaza de Mercado is the architectural and cultural center of an era long gone in most towns, where people did daily shopping. Nowadays, La Placita is a party town, colorful and vibrant. We celebrated our friend’s birthday at Santaella’s, one of the top restaurants in San Juan.
By mid-February, our two granddaughters joined us from New Jersey. With young people in tow, that meant endless hours by the beach; hence, my wonderful deep tan. Beaches are free, including those by the two main hotel strips in Isla Verde (by the airport) and El Condado. La Playita del Condado was our top choice, for its family-friendly ambiance and tranquil waters. The reef wall breaks the high surf and treacherous tides from the Atlantic, common at this time of year. Sand and all, we enjoyed a belly full of local snacks, water, pineapple, coconuts and lemonade stands alongside Ashford Avenue.
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| Carite National Park |
La Ruta del LechÏŒn or the Pig’s Highway, is 45 minutes from San Juan via the expressway. This iconic route used to be a spot located high in the Sierra de Cayey Mountain range, for anyone craving roasted pig on charcoal or “lechon asado”. La Ruta del LechÏŒn attracts many visitors and has also been featured in a number of cooking programs. Hence, our granddaughters did not have to twist our arms to take them along. After having our fill, we continued driving up the mountains to Carite National Forest to have them experience a tropical forest.
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| La Cueva del Indio Rock Formation |
Growing up in Puerto Rico, I remember visiting La Cueva del Indio in the town of Arecibo, an hour from San Juan. After 60 years, I was back to face my fear of heights. I “bravely” scaled the huge rugged rock formations, with an impressive view of the crashing sea. I returned totally enraptured by the view, notwithstanding fear and all! To refresh ourselves, we hit El Carajo (local phrase that means “Go to hell”) bar and restaurant. So, to “hell” we went to quench our thirst with a few Medallas, our local beer. While in El Carajo, we indulged in fried fish empanadas and “chillo con mofongo” (red snapper and mashed plantains).
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| Force of the Sea |
Unfortunately, our catamaran sailing and snorkeling trip to Fajardo, on the east side of the Island, was cancelled due to inclement weather. Las Croabas, in the Fajardo area where most locals and visitors go sailing and snorkeling is usually a 9 am to 3 p.m. day trip. This trip is a must for us every time we are in Puerto Rico and so we can always come back next time.
We concluded our extended vacation with a family barbecue to express our gratitude and love to all, and promised to make it an annual pilgrimage, inviting friends and family.
My advice to anyone feeling tired of being a recluse during this pandemic, is to follow all the necessary precautions and take off. I highly recommend an extended week-end trip to Puerto Rico, which is less than a four hour flight from New York/New Jersey and the round trip air fare is under $400 . The sunshine, the blue skies, the sunsets and the beaches are spectacular and free to enjoy!
What a lovely virtual tour and beautiful pictures. We always loved our visit to the Isla del Encanto and our favorite beach was Luquillo. Lechon, is also available here on St.Croix, especially during VI-Puerto Rican Friendship month in October, but we have no "Ruta".. It's definitely one of my favorite dishes.
ReplyDeleteBeautiful thanks for sharing. Reminds me of my birthplace Sri Lanka with its flora and fauna and similar economic difficulties!
ReplyDeleteRohini de silva