1984 Safari in Kordofan Region, Sudan, Part I: Franziska von Vietinghoff

 

By Franziska von Vietinghoff

Introduction

A haboub, as opaque as a sand storm can be, welcomed me in Khartoum to my four+ years in Sudan. The air pilot tried three landings before success. With excitement I was looking forward to my first field assignment with UNICEF. I was the first international woman staff member in the UN System in Sudan.

The story is an abridged and translated version of what I wrote in Swedish, after leaving Sudan.

The text reflects my infinite respect for Sudan and her people. It is based on Sudanese legends, for legends are excellent cultural markers. Unlike proverbs that are tricky to translate, legends have an easily understood flow of their own.

The Baobab Tree

One day in the Almighty’s process of creation in the desert, it was the turn for the baobab tree to be properly placed. The majestic tree fiercely opposed the location the Almighty had chosen. Upset, the Almighty pulled up the baobab with its roots and dropped it back in the ground, but with a twist, for this time the tree was placed upside down. The legend explains why the baobab is recognized by its stunning upside down profile. It has a broad and strong trunk, and a crown that resembles roots far too frail for the dimensions of such a tree.

We pack the landrover for travel in the land of baobabs, in Kordofan Region of Sudan. We depart early in the morning and baobabs aged several hundred years are silhouetted against the sky. The baobab grows in many parts of eastern Africa but only Kordofan honours the tree with a baobab contained in its coat of arms. Stories of the legendary baobabs come to my mind and I wonder, was it right here in Kordofan that the willful tree opposed the Almighty. After all, the baobab belongs here since ever just as mankind does. The intriguing outline of the baobab will stay with us for long hours.

Desert Safari

Kordofan people live their traditional way. They cultivate the arid soil, or, more often, they tend their herds of camels. Periodic persistent droughts play havoc with their livelihood and they are obliged to move the animals wherever water and feed is found. A semi-nomadic lifestyle may forcibly be theirs.

My small group checks the drinks for all – petrol for the motor in tank and canisters, and drinking water in filled flasks for the travelers. Further checks are done on essential items: bread, salt tablets, campbeds and a small basic stove, all securely fastened on the top of the Landrover. Ready. When at 06.05 hours the sun rises over the horizon, we leave Kordofan’s regional capital El Obeid and head south in the direction of Kadugli town, which is said to be Africa’s geographic heart. An early deparature is preferred, as the desert sand cools and becomes packed overnight, which allows the wheels of the landrover to roll ahead smoothly. Later in the day the sand becomes fluffy from the intense heat and the wheels may lose their grip.

We have read about other remarkable travel. A railway line was opened in 1912 from Khartoum to El Obeid. I wonder who was there to enjoy the inaugural passenger trip, where the luncheon menu included Russian caviar, asparagus soup, caramelized duck, and fresh fruit salad. Today the fine style of travel and culinary luxury of those days is unthinkable.

Sudan is one of the geographically most diverse countries in Africa. My travels covered the four cardinal points, from Wadi Halfa in the north, to Nimule in the south where refugees from Uganda settle. In the west on the border with Chad I visit Furubranga, a lively trading town. In the east I drink water from the wholesome sources of the Kassala Mountains. I move about by bus, train, Landrover, domestic airline, and bi-motor aircrafts. Sadly, never did I ride a camel: the original means of transport in the desert eluded me. Joining a three-week caravan trip to Libya remains on my fantasy list.

When in later years I am asked to explain my life in Kartoum – perhaps the hottest capital in the world - I liken it to a five-year long, hot summer where the seasons go hand-in-hand. When Ramadan occurs in the hottest summer months, the faith of its observers remain strong and enviable. Sunset comes as a relief. Indeed, sunset in the desert is a stunning, memorable experience.

The Camel

Those who never lived in a desert may not know the joke about the camel: that it is a horse constructed by a committee. For nomads in Kordofan and elsewhere in Sudan, whose social and economic lives centre around these animals, the camel is known as an ata Allah, a gift of the Almighty. For the nomads the camel is blessed with exquisite beauty, strength, elegance and patience. It is no surprise that for a long time Sudan was a world leader in camel-raising, counting millions of heads.

The camel driver knows his animal’s name and uniqueness, and each camel’s descendency is well memorized. You may hear of El Agbash, ‘the almost white’, who thanks to its colour is easily recognized, or of Wad el Atiga, ‘son of the one who was ill but recovered’. One legend tells that the bishari, the finest of camels, has such a smooth gait that the rider can balance a cup of tea on its shoulders without losing a single drop. When a well known camel dies, it is mourned and women ululate as they do for humans. Desert nomads say that camels are known by 99 different names. At this point, the camel itself smiles. For only he knows the hundredth name. Beauty and ancient culture lie in that smile, possibly also in that name that I will never know.

Click here for Part II