Raki, a Beginner’s Hand Guide: Ken Gibbs

A summer visit to almost any house in Albania is a memorable event. The shade temperature may be approaching 40ºC but on entering the front gate one immediately passes under a canopy of vines and the temperature seems to drop sharply. The brilliant and harsh sunshine is replaced with a soft and dappled light which makes one want to say, "Ah, at last - out of the sun !"

The vines play a multiple role in the Albanian home. They provide shade and a cool environment during the summer heat. They mysteriously seem to reduce the amount of dust coming into the house and, most importantly, they provide fresh grapes and Raki.

High class house surrounded by vines (in Theth)

Raki is usually made by fermenting grapes of any colour - normally in a 200 litre plastic drum these days. The grapes are squashed - don't ask how - and water and sugar are added. About 50% grapes and the rest, water.

When the fermentation process is complete - no more bubbles from the sugar and the specific gravity has decreased to 0.995, measured with a hydrometer, distillation takes place. Twice.

The stills are mostly very simple double boilers with a spout out of the top container around which winds a copper pipe for cold water to condense the now much stronger drink. Double distillation brings the alcohol content well above the 50% mark.

Primitive still

Great stuff raki - but it should be treated with considerable respect. It can be used as a dry cleaning fluid, and when in need, a passable Zippo lighter fuel. When all else fails, it cleans drains remarkably well. When the situation is dire, take it with breakfast and you'll feel nothing for the rest of the day - not even a hangover next day. It has astonishing anaesthetic properties.

Advanced Raki still - note taste equipment bottom right

If it is ever to be used in the cooking, always employ a cooking container with an open top and wide brim and do not leave the lid on until all the alcohol has been driven off, or consumed. A flash-back can do serious damage to the kitchen roof.

Raki is produced with multiple flavours. When travelling, colleagues have often pointed out a spiky plant which they maintain is the source of the flavour for one type of raki, but it has taken months to obtain the Albanian name of the plant. It is dellinjë, and the shrub produces a small green berry which appears to go black on maturation. Dellinjë is, to the initiated, Juniperus communis.

It is also said by those with a bit more experience that the wild strawberry, locally called mare (Arbutus Unedo ?), is also used. This is a pretty and larger shrub which produces a completely round slightly furry ball about the size of a glass marble which starts green, passes to a bright orange and finally becomes a light orangey-red. It tastes quite sweet. It is maintained that eating too many wild strawberries produces drunkenness since the berry is said to ferment as it ripens. The rather benign look on faces during this season bears testimony to its effects, but there may be some doubt as to whether it is the strawberry which causes it, or the apparent need to keep checking on the quality of the raki being distilled.

Raki affected building standards

some photos taken by Detlef Palm

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Ken Gibbs can be contacted via kengibbs1941@gmail.com

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