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Ruins on a Caribbean Island - Horst Cerni


St. Croix - ruins of a former sugar estate

Ruins are not only caused by fighting, but in the Caribbean, are usually the result of natural disasters, like volcanic eruptions or hurricanes. The Virgin Islands have never experienced war, nor did they suffer any war damage. But there are quite a few ruins, and some have become tourist attractions. Some were former sugar plantations. Estate Whim is very well preserved and has most buildings, like the Great House and sugar production windmill and press, which have been restored. It serves as a Museum and research center.


Estate Whim Plantation Museum

Many others were abandoned when sugar was no longer profitable, partly due to the liberation of the slaves in 1848, and also because the islands were sold to the US in 1917. The St. Croix Landmarks Society, which operates Estate Whim, realized the historical importance of these plantations and organized monthly “Ruins Rambles” with expert lectures by a professor.

Danish tourists exploring the ruins of an estate

Tourists examining the remains of the ruins

Some well preserved estates are still in use, sometimes as venues for wedding parties, or have been bought by organizations, like the Nature Conservancy.


The town of Christiansted also has some abandoned buildings, because inheritors could not decide what to do with them or had no interest (or money) in restoring them ( - some living on other islands). But overall, the town is well maintained and a National Historic site. It is considered the best preserved Danish Colonial town in the Caribbean. The Virgin Island Historic Preservation Commission assures that historic Danish colonial buildings are maintained and painted according to the Danish code of 1747.  Any new building in the National Historic District requires approval to meet the historic standards.

Ruins of the dwellings of enslaved laborers at a sugar plantation in Christiansted

Former dwellings of laborers


It also has designated certain ruins as historic landmarks. On the outskirts of Christiansted is a set of ruins, which originally were the dwellings of enslaved laborers at the nearby sugar plantation. The construction of a by-pass highway had to make a special loop to avoid damaging these ruins. They now form part of a lovely park.

One Danish colonial building from the 18th century is the former Lutheran Church which the National Park Service is restoring and converting into a museum. It is a Christiansted Landmark and referred to as the Steeple Building

The former Danish Lutheran church, known as the Steeple Building, in Christiansted, St.Croix

“New life grows out of ruins”

The street leading in and out of the town was neglected and many of the buildings lay in decay.



Ruins near the Steeple Building

Ruins to be removed and rebuilt

It was exactly the type of challenge a Mexican-Texan entrepreneur was looking for. He was able to buy a dozen of the properties and started restoring and rebuilding the ruins, creating new dwellings - his own home, then an AirBnB, an apartment complex and a hotel.



Rebuilding ruins

Restored ruins

Restored ruins rebuilt to become a hotel and community center

Soon this street will be as popular as the others in downtown Christiansted which will grow further East. A whiskey distillery has already established itself there.

Germany’s great poet Friedrich von Schiller said in a drama:

“The Old collapses, the time is changing,

And new life is growing out of ruins.”



Comments

  1. Excellent article! I’m especially proud of my husband, the writer. When we met in New York he had no idea where St. Croix was located. After retirement from UNICEF we retired back to St. Croix, my home, where he feels very much at home with the island life, culture, history, and the weather no matter what it brings. This article proves his research skills, photography, and love of the Crucian way, the old ruins, and the new future ruins of very distant times spouting up everywhere in our neighborhood in Christiansted. Isabel

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  2. A fine article but all images and text concerning the Landmarks Society and Estate Whim are inaccurate for now. Also, the ruins at the outskirts of Christiansted carry no signage as to their identity and do not prompt visitation.

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    Replies
    1. Yes, my images of Estate Whim are old. There has been considerable damage from Hurricanes and the Society has been struggling to raise funds and make the repairs. Nevertheless, it was and is a great organization and worth supporting, Too many ruins have fallen into disrepair.

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  3. Thank you Horst for featuring such a lovely place, even as you show the so-called ruins. You are indeed fortunate to live on this island and it shows from the manner in which you share its attributes with others. We also live on an island, but the difference is starkly apparent in its features. Still we have managed to enjoy it after thirty years.

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